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Thanks Angus, I have a roll of acrylic about 2mm left over from putting new windows in the kids' bike shed.
I had been thinking of taping it on along the top but your suggestion of putting it behind the rudder pintles sounds good. The flap will be flexible enough not to need a hinge initially.

I have taken some measurements and will try to construct some flaps they will need to be about 18" wide and 4" high to fill the (designed) hole in the transom either side of the tiller.
Would a T-foil rudder help in this situation? or would that be just throwing money at the problem with little gain?

More practice bailing for the crew - and possibly something to block up the centreboard case.
I didn't mention that there are no transom flaps but the water drains fairly effectively over the stern tank with a little bit of motion.
Thanks for the suggestions.

In my Baggy Trousers, there is a low stern tank which extends a little under the floor. The centreboard case is pretty low and extends only about 8 - 10" above the floor.

After a capsize, on the river at Desborough, the natural water line is about level with the top of the centreboard case or just above depending on the weight of the crew. I have managed to sail out singlehanded, but never with even the lightest of crews.

The forward and aft tanks are both empty.

Is there some underlying problem with my boat? Are there any simple steps I can take to improve things?

I am considering whether adding some thin tubular bags either side of the centreboard would add enough floatation to make a difference, or whether they would be too much in the way; obstructing access to the bailers and operation of the tackle for the jib tension and lowers that run along the floor there.

One sugestion is that the boat was put together with sailing on the sea in mind,which would provide more bouancy.
Dan
N3342

When I was watching the Star class final race before the Finns, I noticed the crew standing on the foredeck rocking the boat on the downwind legs. What's that doing for them?

The boom on my 12 has a slot running along the top of it, but the clew of the sail is held down by a webbing strop that is tight around the boom and doesn't slide very well.
Are there any better ways of setting it up so that it will move more easily?
Would this boom originally be for a sail with a bolt rope sewn into the foot?
Could I put a slider in instead?
I guess that if it was that easy then it would have been tried by the previous owner.

I bought a Baggy Trousers to solve the childcare issue. Now my wife can take one boy in our Mirror and I have taken the two smaller boys in the 12, although only one is better.
I would say that you need to make sure that you are comfortable sailing the boat single-handed and then you are in a good position when the crew just gives up.

The rubber tiller extension joint broke last weekend. Has anybody got any advice how to get the broken part out of the extension and fit the new one?
The extension is aluminium with a deep crimp all around about 6mm from the end. Is it possible to get the old piece out without cutting the end off? Can I heat it up and make it softer?
I dont think that I can make a new deep crimp if I cut it off, so how can I hold the fitting in?

What would it look like?
I might buy one with with suitable mystery and gravitas.

I was talking to a chap at the sailing club yesterday and he said that the Firefly dinghy was originally a N12 design.
I read that it was designed by Uffa King along the lines of the 12 but was it ever a legal N12 design?
thanks
dan

Hi Ben
I've used hot-air to strip my wooden British Moth (hard chine plywood construction) successfully. Hot air will melt polyester resin - I'm not sure about other resins. Obviously take any plastic fittings out of the way.
I don't know whether there are any considerations specific to a cold-moulded hull. 
dan

Tim,
Just a thought - would it make sense to extend the stiffener up to the rib? Then it doesn't end in the middle of nowhere (as Gerry said).
Dan

hi Tim,
As Tim says, the crucial thing is to get back down to sound dry wood.
If it's only the top laminate coming away then it might be possible to strip the top layer off and replace that with a new veneer. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is but you need to take your time.
It has the advantage that you don't cut have to cut right through the hull. You may find that the middle laminate is rotted too so this may not be an option.
dan

Alex, I would use one of the modern resins.
Polyester is cheap and easy to get hold of. Epoxy is more expensive but has better water resistant properties.
If there is much gap filling to do, try a foaming polyurethane glue but be very sparing in the application.
dan

I'm hoping to get down now I've taken Redwind down to Desborough. I can't make the first race (family commitments) and may be in need of a crew if I can't get a son out to play.
Dan