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In the past I've used a telescopic one which avoids the issue.  They are usually 70 - 120 cm.

Last coat of paint still to go onto the hull in the next day or so, a bit more top side work and a some re-rigging to go. If we don't finish in time we'll come down and watch.

Bought in August 2006 having been stored in a barn for the last four years. Currently undergoing restoration ready for the spring. Currently Holt-Allen alloy mast / Superspars alloy boom. P&B and Ullman Sails. New Alverbanks on order.

The Yachts and Yachting article here. Not much detail on results though.

http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/news/?article=24584

Firstly I realise the benefits of allowing guests to post, but I know some forums that have been destroyed by spam postings.

One option is to create a guest account with password that needs to be checked and changed periodically and use this instead of allowing all guests to post.

The other option ( more effort)  is that some sites ask you to type in the alpha numeric equivalent of some image of random characters at time of posting. If someone (Grazz ? ) sends me a link to the software running the site and the version, I may be able to find the necessary skills to add the features for us.

My favourite approach is a long knotted rope and an hour glass. I have problems counting the knots while  holding the main sheet at the same time.... but at least the hour glass floats.

I've been playing with oxalic acid... This really brings out the original colour from the grey sun bleached wood where the old varnish has lifted and also those black water marks. It doesn't work as well where the varnish is better attached.

My best results at old varnish removal are from the combined use of a heat gun and nitromors.
I have been trying things out on an old Mirror dinghy.

I have used UPC, Goldspar and then Blakes with a roller and a decent brush to smooth out any bubbles and uneven coverage. This also works well with the yacht enamel.

bump for RLSC

Following the design evolotion theme...
Does anyone have a picture of a Radical Posture (N3257 / N3260 / N3265) ?

N3249 Fat Tulip  (Brand Loyalty) is advertised on apollo duck with quite a good photo.http://sailingdinghies.apolloduck.co.uk/display.phtml?aid=49713

As we are all having a go, my view is ..

There are the advantages and disadvantages of having less mass in the boat. For me the distribution is more important than the limit. The distribution of any mass changes the centre of gravity but also the centre of gyration of the boat. This will impact on the twichiness of the boat. The lighter the boat (with correctors) the more control you have over both these characteristics. With the mass well distributed over the hull you get a different feel. This is a big plus for well designed light boats at present.

In light winds you need to get all that mass moving at speed. Acceleration would be better with less mass. A level playing field here is important, so by decreasing the limit you make boats that can't go on a diet less competitive.

Using a Formula one analogy, set an envelope with the rules (this has been done) and delevlop to the limit of these criteria. Only change them if you have reached stagnation or are going down a path you don't like.

I'd still expect the crews in newer boats to be toward the front through a combination of skill, enthusiasm and investment of time and money in their chosen sport.

My plan is to understand how to get the best out of the boat I have and then get the best boat I can afford.

I'm also looking for a winter crew. they must be 7'2" and have a centre of gravity above their shoulders for maximum hiking ability, but I'll start a new thread for that one.

also .... http://www.windfinder.com

I have a simailar plan for the winter. This looks like a good topic for a maintenance guide.

What material is the hull made from as this influences your options?

Having repainted a number of boats in the past, 90% of the finish comes from good preparation.
I'm still undecided on the way to go this time having used Blakes (single pack) on the last boat.

There is some opinion that 2 pack paints don't give the required flexibility needed on wood.

I'd be really interested in any top tips

There are a number of web sites giving tips on sponge roller painting and claiming good results. I'll try and find the URL.

I'm also interested in any views on wood preparation and, having gone down the air compressor route, any views on random orbital sanders vs air files? I know orbital sanders are notalways the best for varnished wood as they can leave swirls.

... and finally does anyone know the original colour of my boat. I know four or five of you have owned it at some time. It is currently raspberry and cream. Thanks.

Paste the links below for some pictures of the control for the lowers I inherited. I took them in preparation for my winter refit

http://www.cybercreatures.org/n12/DSCN0452_small.JPG
http://www.cybercreatures.org/n12/DSCN0453_small.JPG

Remove the "_small" if you have the bandwidth and want better resolution.

As one of Kean's lurking few (at Chew Valley http://www.chewvalleysailing.org.uk) I'm planning to do as many events as possible next year.

For me the size of the South West is the issue here. The Devon & Cornwall view looking NE very different compared with the Dorset / Somerset / Gloustestershire / Wiltshire view looking further SW. It's about the same time for me  (from Bath) to drive to Falmouth as it is the Lake district.

It mostly depends on how much travel time my family will take, but Spinnaker and Cotswold WP would be high on my list.