Roll and Tip Painting

[Simon]

After a previous post, I have taken others advice and used the 'roll and tip' method of painting the hull.

Now I need a bit more advice!

Between coats should I sand it down or not? I've read on the web that it's not necessary.

My concerns are:
   * There is some dust apparent in the finish - sanding would make for a better finish
   * The layer of paint is very thin - sanding may remove too much paint

Any other advice greatfully received!

Simon

PS So far I'm impressed with 'roll and tip' unfortunately it may jus put paint sprayers out of a job!

[Tim Gatti]

'Roll and Tip' painting - not heard of that technique - can you describe it for the uninitiated!
As for sanding due to dust - try flatting off with 200 wet and dry used wet on a rubber rubbing down block.  Shouldn't remove too much paint but should get rid of the micro-pimples caused by the dust.
To prevent dust problems when recoating consider reducing draughts as much as possible, hoover floor then use a garden sprayer to damp down, wear dust free clothing and finally, suspend a thin polythene 'tent' over the hull which hangs down at bow, stern and at each side. (The polythene will stop falling dust and will also attract dust particles in the air) Wipe down each section with a Tak rag before you apply paint to get rid of any residual surface particles.
You'd be advised to wear a vapour control respirator or air fed mask as there isn't much air movement under these conditions and inhaling high concentrations of solvents ain't much good for you.

[Lukepiewalker]

Is tip and roll not a two pack thing? Always though two pack was known as being a bit hard to sand.

[Simon]

Hi Tim
 
I hadn't heard of it before coming on this forum. Preperation is everything, the area to be painted must be have the following done: sand, wet n dry (320 or finer), make sure area is as dust free as possible, use tack rag to ensure no dust on surface to be painted.
 
Tools
 
4" foam paint roller (for smooth surface, paint and varnish) (bristle can also be used)
2" foam brush (I bought 10 for £4 off ebay)
 
Technique
 
Roll out around 18"-24" of one side of the hull. Gentley (very gently) drag the foam brush across the surface. This levels the paint and removes any bubbles. Roll out next section and drag the foam brush in the direction of the last area painted. Over lap by about 1". From what I've read you can put fresh over old (by old I mean the last rolled out area i.e. around 3 mins old!) but you can't do old over fresh. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO GO BACK TO AN AREA. The paint when dried has a very smooth high gloss finish. Very much like a sprayed finish.
 
I used Toplac but this method can be used with many other paints and varnishes.
 
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/help/sterling_roll_tip.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTVVjzbA72U
 
I've decide that it doesn't need sanding and having contacted International Yacht Paints they have confirmed that this is OK within times dependant on temprature (in my case 15 degrees C - 16 hours to 3 days)
 
Simon
 
PS Google 'Roll and Tip' for further reading.

[Tim Gatti]

Thanks Simon - I've been using the technique for quite a while without knowing it was called roll and tip!  I also find a fine mohair paint pad gives an excellent finish - providing you rub it with rough sandpaper first then hoover it to get rid of all the loose hairs.  I agree about not needing to sand between coats if you are re-coating in good time but always rub down with fine wet and dry (used wet) before the final coat. I also thin down the final coat about 20% which gives a really fine finish.

[Phil Brown]

A short mohair roller also gives very good results but haven't experienced any problems with loose hairs. Haven't tried thinning down the last coat yet.

Phil
3398

[Simon]

I think I'm going to have to put on more coats than I thought as they are quite thin. I think 4 should do it though. 
 
Thanks Tim for the advice about 'wet n drying' before the last coat. I had considered doing this but you just helped me make my ming up!
 
Would thinning the topcoat not effect the properties of the paint?
 
What advice can you offer on painting the centre board slot?